Once known for its cantonese cuisine, Jiang-Nan Chun has gone through a major revamp – from the furnishings and concept to its food and beverages – to now offer a Chinese fine-dining experience with indulgent and sometimes amusing dishes as its main draw, says Dannon Har
Location On the second level of Four Seasons Hotel Singapore, on Orchard Boulevard.
Ambience It is clear the hotel spared no expense with the revitalisation effort, which started in mid-October last year, leading up to its soft reopening in February.
The refurbishments, first of all, are highly intricate with overhanging fishing nets serving as lamps, custom-made turquoise and blue floor tiles to represent the Yangtze river waters, and handcrafted bird figurines perched around the premises, all done to express the culture and affluence of the namesake Jiang Nan region.
Menu In the kitchen, a new wood-and-mesquite-charcoal oven has been installed, used primarily to roast duck before serving them in both peking and cantonese styles (S$98, US$71). Expect the usual popiah skin wrap and a variety of condiments to be served alongside this dish while the chef personally carves the duck in front of you.
Of all the condiments presented, one surely stands out – caviar. Herein lies an example of the decadent aspect of Jiang-Nan Chun’s new menu concept. Simple but oftentimes unexpected and gratifying touches are added to the dish. In the case of the roast duck, it was as if the crispy skin and tender cuts weren’t amazing enough and the chef decided to really up the wow factor with the addition of caviar as an ingredient.
And the indulgence doesn’t end there.
Another item worth mentioning is the steamed cod wrapped in rice paper roll (S$38). This undistinctive description hardly does the dish justice, as it fails to mention how immaculately plated the roll is, nor does it mention how well the chewiness of the Vietnamese rice roll goes with the flakiness of the fish.
With each spoonful – which is the recommended way to eat it, since it is steeped in broth – flavours of fish brine and black truffle fills the olfactory senses and tantalises the taste buds. Oh yes, did I mention there was truffle? Shaved generously and live in front of guests, I might add.
The revamped menu also remains as extensive as its predecessor, so if unsure of what else to order, highly recommended ones, besides those mentioned, are the sea whelk, maka, dried scallops and pork ribs double-boiled soup (S$38); wagyu beef oxtail with lemongrass-infused oil (S$32); char siew sliders with pickled green chili (S$15); and soft shell prawns with sliced almond and crispy rice (S$15).
On the dessert front, go for the crispy salted egg yolk puff pastry with almond (S$12), a dish that won’t be what you expect it to be, or if you prefer something cold, the avocado cream with coconut sorbet (S$14) won’t disappoint.
Aficionados of Chinese tea will be spoilt for choice as well, with the restaurant able to pair any of your dishes with the appropriate leaves. The Osmanthus Oolong (S$8) is a good choice as a palate-cleanser while the Alfonso Tea (S$11) goes well with desserts.
Service As mentioned, chefs make appearances to personally serve guests from time to time. Couple that with the restaurant managers being well-versed and talkative about the dishes they serve, the degree of personalisation and care is impeccable.
If catering for business meetings or groups, the restaurant’s total 120 seats is spread across a sizable space with 78 seats located within the main dining area and 42 divided (8, 10, 12, 12) among four private dining rooms, three of which are equipped with a 65 inch TV. Two of these rooms also come with an attached mini lounge, good for use as a breakout area.
Verdict Much of Jiang-Nan Chun’s new concept lies in eschewing the traditional need to simply fill one’s tummy to the brim, and instead, pursue the pure pleasures of taste. In my books, this is a big plus and has elevated the restaurant above its competitors who are still pushing buffet brunch offerings among other rapacious dining methods.
Location 190 Orchard Boulevard
Opening hours 11.30-14.30, and 18.00-22.30 daily
Contact details Tel: (65) 6734 1110
